Deciding on a resin floor is only half the battle. Although epoxy floors impress with their durability and aesthetics in garages, showrooms, and warehouses, their installation is a chemical process that does not forgive mistakes. An ill-chosen system or an unreliable contractor can turn an investment into a costly nightmare.
In this article, we explain the differences between the various types of floors and offer tips on how to avoid mishaps during application.
1. Not all "floor resins" are the same – learn about the functions of the systems
Customers often simply ask for "floor resin," not knowing that there are different technologies with completely different properties and prices. At Gaz-Bud, we rely on proven resins (e.g., Epidian), which can be used to create:
A. Painted floors (Thin-layer)
This is the simplest and cheapest option. The resin is applied with a roller, similar to paint (usually 2 coats). The system thickness is approx. 0.5 mm.
- Function: Mainly to protect concrete from dusting and absorbing lubricants/oils. Makes cleaning easier.
- Where to use: Home garages, boiler rooms, utility rooms, where traffic loads are moderate.
B. Poured floors (Self-leveling)
This is the "queen" of floors. It requires the use of a float and a spiked roller. It creates a layer 2-4 mm thick.
- Function: Transferring large mechanical loads, full sealing, and visual effect (smooth glass surface). Hides minor substrate irregularities.
- Where to use: Showrooms (decorative resins), professional workshops, warehouse halls with forklifts.
C. Floors with sprinkles (Anti-slip)
A system in which wet resin is sprinkled with quartz sand or colored flakes.
- Function: Ensuring safety (roughness) and masking installation imperfections.
- Where to use: Ramps, stairs, car washes.
2. Contractors and application – why should you be careful?
Applying floor resin looks easy only in videos on the Internet. In reality, it is work with a "live" chemical material. If you hire an external company or do it yourself, you must be aware of the risks.
Most common contractor sins and technical errors:
- Lack of concrete moisture measurement (Crucial!): This is the most common cause of resin peeling off in sheets after a few months. The contractor MUST measure the substrate moisture with a specialized meter. If the concrete is too wet (above 4%), the resin will not bond.
- Unprepared substrate: Applying resin to smooth, "glassed" concrete or oil stains is a guarantee of failure. The concrete must be mechanically ground and degreased (e.g., with technical acetone) to open the pores.
- Mixing "by eye": Epoxy resins (two-component) require apothecary precision. Incorrect proportions of base to hardener will cause the floor to never dry (it will be sticky) or crack.
- Ignoring temperature (Dew point): If the substrate is too cold, moisture from the air will condense on the fresh resin, creating matte spots and craters.
How to verify a contractor?
Before you let someone pour floor resin in your home, ask:
- Do they have a moisture meter and will they check the concrete before work?
- How will they prepare the substrate? (The answer "we'll just sweep it" disqualifies the contractor – grinding is necessary).
- What materials do they work with? (Professionals choose proven brands, e.g., Sarzyna/Epidian, not the cheapest "no-name" substitutes).
Planning to do the floor yourself? It is possible if you strictly follow the instructions. Start by assembling professional materials at Gaz-Bud:
